Chunky Raglan Knit Sweater Tutorial

Hi everyone! Welcome back! Today I have a Chunky Raglan DIY Knit Sweater for you all :)

Materials: for XS

Striped:

3 skeins color A

1 skein color B (even if doing large size you still might only need 1 skein. I did a version with 103 stitches around and was able to do 20 rows of stripe and still have some left over)

OR

Solid:

4 Skeins


Scissors

Tapestry needle

Several pieces of scrap yarn to test fit and size as you go and to hold arm stitches when working the body

7 regular stitch markers and 1 different stitch marker

Size 15 32” circular needles

Size 15 16” circular needles

OPTIONAL size 13 32” circular needles and size 13 16” circular needles if you want the ribbing to cinch



Skills:

Knit

Purl

Yarn Over



Abbreviations:

XS – Extra Small

S – Small

M – Medium

L – Large

K – Knit

P – Purl

YO – Yarn Over

CO – Cast On

PM – Place Marker

TOG – Together

BO – Bind Off



Pattern:

XS (S, M, L)

Neckline:

CO 47 (49, 51, 53) Stitches with 32" circulars and use bind off method to join. Place 1 different stitch marker

Rows 1-4: K1 P1 ribbing. (Or 1.5”) *you can use size 13 needles if you want the ribbing to cinch*



Yoke (increases for armholes)

Row 1: K2, PM, YO, K 14 YO, PM, K2, PM, YO, K 5 YO, PM, K2, PM, YO, K 14 YO, PM, K2, PM, YO, K 5 YO.

Row 2: Purl all stitches including YO’s

Row 3: K2, YO after marker is moved to right needle, K to next Marker, YO, K2, YO after marker is moved to right needle, K to next marker, YO, K2, YO after marker is moved to right needle, K to next Marker, YO, K2, YO after marker is moved to right needle

Rows 4-17 (21, 25, 29): Repeat rows 2 & 3.

Row 18 (22, 26, 30): Purl all stitches including YO’s

**End of Yoke/Shoulder Increases**



Divide for Sleeves and Body:

K to first marker, remove marker, K to next marker, remove marker, K1, place next stitch on scrap yarn, remove marker, place stitches from here to next marker on same holder, remove marker, place 1 stitch on same holder, tie scrap yarn in a loop so no stitches fall off, CO or YO 1 onto right needle, K to marker, remove marker, K to next marker, remove marker, K1, place next stitch on scrap yarn, remove marker, place stitches from here to next marker on same holder, remove marker, place 1 stitch on same holder (will have to remove marker that signifies start of round, place 1 stitch on holder and put marker back on left needle), CO or YO 1 onto right needle, tie scrap yarn in a loop so no stitches fall off.



Body:

Row 1 (color B): P1, P2 TOG, P to next CO or YO under other stitches on holder, P the CO/YO, P2 TOG, P to beginning.

Row 2 (color B): K

Row 3 (color B): P

Rows 4-11(color B): repeat rows 2 and 3

Row 12 (color A): K

Row 13 (color A): P

Rows 14-21 (color A): repeat rows 12 and 13

Row 22 (color B): K

Row 23 (color B): P

Rows 24-31(color B): repeat rows 22 and 23

Row 32 (color A): K

Row 33 (color A): P

Rows 34-41 (color A): repeat rows 32 and 33

Row 42 (color A): K

Row 43 (color A): P

Rows 44-51 (color A): repeat rows 42 and 43

Rows 52-56: K1 P1 Ribbing. (Or 1.5”)

BO



Sleeves (make 2) 16" circulars

Color A

Pick up stitches so that you begin at the top of the shoulder and not the armpit. Also make sure that the right side of the sweater is facing you and not the inside (see video for better description). Also pick up 3 (3, 4, 4) stitches along the armpit (there should be a gap in stitches here).

Row 1: Knit to exact middle stitch (count and divide by 2) also don’t knit the middle stitch. PM, K1, PM, K to beginning.

BELOW WEBSITE IS HOW TO CALCULATE THE SLEEVE!
http://www.getknitting.com/ak_0603mfcalc.aspx

Row 2: Purl to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Purl

Rows 5-9: repeat rows 3 & 4

Row 10: Purl to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Rows 13-17: repeat rows 11 & 12

18: Purl to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Purl

Rows 21-26: repeat rows 20 & 21

27: Knit to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 28: Purl

Row 29: Knit

Rows 30-35: repeat rows 28 & 29

36: Purl to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 37: Knit

Row 38: Purl

Rows 39-44: repeat rows 37 & 38

45: Knit to 2 STS before marker, P2TOG, move marker, P1, move marker, P2TOG, purl to beginning

Row 46: Purl

Row 47: Knit

Rows 48-52: repeat rows 46 & 47

Rows 53-56: *K1 P1* repeat * to * until end of each round.

BO


Weave in ends!

One Skein Crochet Winter Vest

Hi everyone! I'm back again with a new crochet tutorial! I'm so excited to share this with you all because it's the first crochet pattern that I completed that is a garment that you can wear out or over a cute dress. I'm so happy it worked out and I can't wait to see what you guys create :)

Please check out my YouTube video below to watch me make it and below for the written pattern!

Front Body

Below is done in size small, for medium do 2 more rows and for large do 4 more than the small size. 

S (M, L)

MAKE 2

Row 1: chain 2, hdc in 2^nd ch from hook. ch 2, turn. (ch 2 counts as a hdc)

Row 2: 2 hdc in first hdc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: hdc in first stitch (counts as an increase because of initial ch2 and turn) across to last ch. Hdc 2 in last ch. Ch 2, turn

Row 4-10 (4-12, 4-14): RPT row 3. (18 ch total for small)

Row 11 (13, 15): mark opposite end of row with a removable stitch marker. Hdc in second stitch (not what your ch 2 is connected to but the next stitch) and hdc across until last stitch. Hdc 2 in last stitch. Ch 2, turn.

Row 12 (14, 16): hdc in stitch connected to ch 2 (first stitch) and across. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 13-20 (15-22, 17-24): repeat rows 11-12 (13-14, 15-16). ( 29 stitches total)

Row 21 (armhole shaping and collar decrease) (23, 25): ss in first 5 stitches. Hdc 2 together. Hdc across until you reach last two stitches. Hdc 2 tog. Ch 1, turn.

Row 22 (24, 26): hdc 2 tog hdc across. Ch 2 turn

Row 23 (25, 27): hdc in second stitch (not one connected to the ch 2). Hdc until last two. Hdc tog. Ch 1 turn.

Rows 24-29 (26-31, 28-33) repeat rows 22-23 (24-25, 26-27) (14? Stitches for small)

Row 30 (32, 34): hdc in second stitch (not one connected to the ch 2). Hdc until last two. Hdc tog. Ch 2 turn.

Row 31 (33, 35) (shoulder shaping): skip first HDC and hdc in next 4 stitches. Ch 2, turn (leaving rest of row unworked)

Rows 32-37 (34-39, 36-41): repeat row 31 (33, 35). 

Bind Off

Back

MAKE 1

Measure your back from side seam to side seam and make a chain as long adding 4 more chains (crochet shrinks as you work the piece) (2 count as first hdc)

Row 1: hdc in third chain from hook and hdc across. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc) and turn.

Rows 2-9 (2-11, 2-13): hdc in second hdc, hdc across, ch 2, turn.

Row 10 (12, 14): hdc in second hdc, hdc across, ch 1, turn.

Row 11 (13, 15) (Shaping armhole): ss in first 5 stitches, hdc 2 tog, hdc across till last 7 stitches. Hdc 2 tog, ch 2 and turn.

Rows 12-15 (14-17, 16-19): hdc in second from hook, hdc across. Ch 2, turn.
Rows 16-20 (18-22, 20-24): hdc in first stitch (inc) and across. 2 hdc in last stitch. ch 2 turn.

Bind Off.

Seam up side seams

Seam shoulder seams

Seam back collar together and then seam to the back neck hole. 

Weave in ends and block if desired.

If you have ANY questions please leave a comment below, on the video on YouTube or send me a message on Instagram @dahi.knits !

Enjoy and good luck!

Xx

Steph

Easy Crochet Moccasins Tutorial

Hi everyone! Today I FINALLY have a new crochet pattern to share! It is accompanied by a YouTube video as well so don’t forget to check that out below too :)

MATERIALS

6.5 mm crochet hook

Size 6 super bulky yarn (I used about 1/3 skein of Bernat Blanket)

DICTIONARY

SC = single crochet (go through chain, yarn over, pull through, yarn over pull through the two stitches on your hook)

DC = double crochet (yarn over, go through chain, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through 2, yarn over pull through last two)

Treble Crochet (yarn over twice,  go through chain, yarn over pull through, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through two, yarn over pull through last two)

SIZES

I wear a size 8.5-9 women’s US and these were a ~bit~ loose on me. (I’m thinking they would’ve been more snug if I was also wearing thick fuzzy socks!)

You can start with any number of chains as long as it fits across the widest part of your foot. 

For length, you will do as many rows to fit the length of your foot. (I did 14 rows)

INSTRUCTIONS

SOLE

First make a slip knot and chain 8 (or as many needed to cover the width of your foot)

Row 1: 1 sc in the second chain from the hook. *1 dc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Chain 3 and turn.

Row 2: Sc in the second stitch in (on top of the dc). The chain three counts as the first dc. *sc in the next stitch and then dc in the stitch after*. Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 3: Sc in the first stitch (on top of the last dc you did in the last round). *dc in the next stitch, sc in the stitch after*. Repeat from * to * till the end. 

REPEAT ROWS 2 AND 3 UNTIL YOU REACH YOUR DESIRED LENGTH

***QUICK TIP***

An easy way to remember how to work this pattern is that if your first stitch when you turn is a dc then you should have chained one and do a sc in that first stitch. If your SECOND stitch is a dc then you would have chained 3 and then skipped the first stitch (single crochet) and have single crocheted on top of the double crochet. 

Leave any comments below or on the video if you get stuck and need help!

SIDES OF SHOE

Once your shoe is of the desired length, you will chain 3 and turn your work so that you are working down the length of the sole. 

Row 1: You will dc around the perimeter of the sole and slip stitch to the first dc. Chain 3.

Row 2: Start dc’ing from the second stitch all the way around until the last 5 stitches. In the last 5 stitches you will sc and chain 2 (counts as first dc of next row) 

TOP OF SHOE

Row 1: In the second chain dc across to the end. Chain 2 & turn.

Repeat row 1 until the top piece is long enough to cover the top of your foot so that your foot does not fall out of the shoe when wearing it. (I did 4 rows)

ATTATCHING TOP TO THE SHOE

To attach the top to the rest of the shoe you will chain one and line up the edges of the top to the edges of the sides of the shoe. Now you’re going to sc along these two edges, seaming them shut as if you were joining two pieces in a side seam or a hat. You will work this starting from the left side, around the front and up the right side of the top of the shoe. There is a good visual of this in the video! Once you reached the beginning, chain 3.

TOP FLAP OF SHOE

After chaining three we will now be creating 4 more treble crochets across those 5 stitches to create the top of the shoe. You will skip the first stitch and place a treble crochet in the second.

At the end, bind off and tuck yarn.

FINISHING 

Fold over the treble crochet flap and thread some yarn through the underside so each loose end of the yarn is coming out of the top. Tie in a bow and you’re done! There is a good visual of this in the video too!

Don’t forget to make 2! 

I hope you all enjoyed and if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment here or on the video for this pattern!

Good Luck!

Xx

Stephanie Marie